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The American Alpine Journal 2002: The World's Most Significant Climbs

 The American Alpine Journal 2002: The World's Most Significant Climbs

by Sean Hudson

November 15, 2002

Published annually since 1929, The American Alpine Journal is internationally renowned as the finest publication of its kind, detailing the previous year's most significant climbs. The latest volume, The American Alpine Journal 2002 is a special anniversary collection commemorating the 100th anniversary of the American Alpine Club. This new volume features the biggest accomplishments of American mountaineers, the most important voices in American climbing, the best books by American climbers, and more. Climbers of 2001's hottest new routes include Kenton Cool, Jonathan Copp, Stefan Glowacz, Alex and Thomas Huber, Stephen Koch, Tim O'Neill, Dean Potter, Marko Prezelj, Mark Richey, and Raphael Slawinski. Also new in The American Alpine Journal 2002 are locator maps, which reveal where the mountains are, from the Bugaboos to the Kokshaal-Too.

Exclusive in this anniversary edition of the American Alpine Journal:

  • "Ten Climbs to Remember" begins with Fanny Bullock-Workman's high-altitude record in 1906 and leads up to Lynn Hill's free climb of the Nose in one day in 1994, with summit stops along the way on the Grand Teton, Everest, North Twin, and more.
  • "High Praise" examines 52 of the most influential--and fascinating--American mountaineering books.
  • In "100 Years of Alpine Leadership" all the living American Alpine Club presidents--past and present--share the issues that distinguished their terms of office.

Alaska's spring 2001 season and Patagonia's winter 2001-2001 season were perhaps the greatest ever for big new routes and fast repeats. Among the great climbs:

  • "Light Traveler" by Stephen Koch. After blasting up new and recently freed routes on Mt. Hunter, Koch and Slovenia's Marko Prezelj storm up an 8,500-foot new route on Mt. McKinley in a nonstop 51-hour push.
  • "True Value" by Tim O'Neill. Along with their new route on Cerro Fitz Roy, O'Neill and Dean Potter complete the first Alpine-style ascent of Patagonia's infamous Torre Egger.
  • "Big new Alaskan routes from Kenton Cool and Kevin Mahoney.

Other significant mountaineering stories from around the world:

  • Mark Richey and Mark Wilford discover that getting up to the top of a virgin peak in the Indian Karakoram is only half the battle.
  • Valeri Babanov solos Meru's Shark's Fin, making this long-awaited first ascent in the Garhwal.
  • Alexander Huber establishes the hardest free rock route in the Alps.

Climbs & Expeditions

The Climbs & Expeditions section offers the documentation climbers need to head anywhere in the world in order to try anything new--or just to learn about recent conditions and new developments that might affect a climber's plans. Climbs & Expeditions 2002 provides direct reports from hundreds of climbers who have expanded and made new ascents or interesting repeats in the Continuous United States, Alaska, Canada, Greenland, Mexico, Peru, Brazil, Bolivia, Argentina, Chile, Antarctica, Turkey, Iran, Mozambique, Madagascar, Russia, Kyrgyzstan, Pakistan, India, Nepal, China, Tibet, Korea, and Malaysia.

About the American Alpine Club

Founded in 1902, The American Alpine Club (AAC) is the leading national organization devoted to mountaineering and rock climbing, to the conservation and study of mountainous regions, and to representing the interests of the American climbing community. The AAC is based in Golden, Colorado.

For more information on this book, visit the Mountaineers Books website.

For more information on the American Alpine Club, visit their website at

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