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Red Rocks Trip Report


by Michael Rovner

December 29, 2001

We climbed for two days at Red Rocks. Even though it was warmer then the Bay Area we exercised enough self restraint to keep us out of reportedly "cold" Black Velvet Canyon. This meant having to miss out on the long trad routes. We confined our efforts to sport climbing in the second pullout and it's surrounding crags. Namely Wall of Confusion & The Gallery (should have a parking lot full sign at the trail head . . .what a zoo!), Black Corridor, and Sweet Pain Wall.

Because we had two members of our group who are 5.10 and under climbers we picked walls that also had 9's and 10's.

The Black Corridor

A great area for those who like 5.9 warm up's to there climbs. In this area I recomend "Dancing With a God" (10a), "Rude, Lude, and Misconstrued" (10a-Great stemming to a hand jam, then easy arete to the shuts), and "Rebel Without a Pause" (5.11a-great overhanging hueco route at the top of the corridor). This area is in the shade a lot so go there if it is to hot elsewhere.

Gallery and Wall of Confusion

Very popular spots. Always a crowd everyday we were there. Many really tough routes including several 13's and many 12's and 11's. My goal here was "Fear and Loathing" (12.a). Good warm up is "A Day in the Life" (11C). Ticked "Fear and Loathing" after two tries. It is steep and the holds are generally very good. It is just hanging in there and then a two finger pocket high-step at the end after the long steep overhang. Very fun but it pumped me out for awhile (needed lunch and a nap).

Side Note: While in the Gallery I had the pleasure of meeting Chris Linder. Chris has been in a few of the mags and you may have heard of him . . . he is the 9 year old who has climbed "The Gift" (5.12c). Well he has now climbed 13a and is one fall away from red-pointing "Sissy Traverse" (5.13b). All I have to say is he is not what you would expect. Shy and unassuming, quite and contented. He is truly happy about getting to climb every weekend with his dad. His dad informs me that they drive out every weekend and on the way he teaches his son to read. Sounds nice to me.

Sweet Pain Wall

I highly recomend "Sweet Pain" (5.12a). It is a really fun route. There is also a nice .10d and .11b that share the same start just to the right of sweet pain. They are both fun.

Before I sign off: the hotels in that town are completely amazing! You must see Treasure Island (complete with pirate battle out front every 1.5 hours including cannon fire and four story tall ships that sink. The pirates always win.) and Luxor (a giant pyramid complete with virtual reality video game room). Also MGM Grand has an amusment park 1/4 the size of Disneyland anda casino 2.5 football fields long. Wow!

This comes from: Camp4
Live To Climb