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1st Follow Up to The Workout From Hell


by Ron Watkins

December 29, 2001

If you're not getting the type of gains you're expecting from WFH, you may want to try this: workout daily...and use more synergistic principles to design your workout for max strength/endurance gains (whereas size is less important to competitive level climbers i would think)


  1. chest/triceps (heavy) more sets - less reps
  2. back/biceps (light) less sets - high reps
  3. shoulders/legs (heavy)
  4. chest/triceps (light)
  5. back/biceps (heavy)
  6. shoulders/legs (light) (or a rock gym day)
  7. (for me, my alpine climbing day...rock/snow/ice...all day)

most importantly (for me) is that my weight routine is after 45-60 min of either nordic-track or bicycling at a training pulse rate (covert bailey formula...220-age=A, A - resting pulse rate = B, B * .65 = C, C + rpr = training rate....), my diet _also_ follows covert baileys "target diet"...

my weight routine really only takes 15-20 min and I do the the pulls (back biceps days using metolius rock rings, buckets on heavy days, fingers on light days)

light days: go for the "pump"/lactic acid balancing...heavy days: muscle strain

i try to hit the rock gym 2 evenings/week, 1 of those evenings i have a "project"...and the other evening i'm on the tred-wall for 1000' feet non-stop, verticle, 5.7 ish.

its made a "big" difference in my climbing (the goal) and i'm not "religious" about the weights...if the weathers good, i'll skip the weights and go bouldering...

i crave, buffalo wings, beer, italian subs...tuna fish ??? nahhhhh thats for 5.13 climbers ! ;-)

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