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New Speed Record on Hallucinogen Wall


by Editor

May 17, 2005

Camp4 - Climbing News Archive

Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, CO. On May 12th, Durango-based climbers Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden both set out on a long talked about mission to set the speed record on Colorado’s most coveted aid line, the “Hallucinogen Wall” VI A3+.

Last May the pair freed 15 of the 16 pitches in traditional free climbing style, and dry tooled one pitch high on the wall. They felt compelled to return to the stunning wall to relive memories and to try for a speed attempt. Previous speed ascents of the wall clocked in at 25, 24, and 23+ hours, with average ascents taking 2-3 days. The pair climbed in blocks, used short fixing techniques, and freed many sections in between aid placements. Nelson started the wall climbing through pitch 7 in roughly 2 and half hours, Ogden then took over to lead pitch 8 through 14, with Nelson finishing the walls last two pitches. Their time clocked in 8 hours and 59 minutes. “We both felt inspired to be on the wall again, seeing sections we freed remembering how scared we really were made us smile.” Nelson recalls.

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