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Possible V16 at Hourai, Japan


by Unknown

December 17, 2003

Camp4 - Climbing News Archive

Dai Koyamada has established a new problem at Hourai, Japan, called Byaku-dou that could possibly be the world's first V16. According to Koyamada, Byaku-dou, or "The Road to Heaven," is the hardest problem he has ever completed, believing the rating to be "at least 8C, V15." French strongman, Fred Rouhling has attempted Byaku-dou and says that it is harder than Dreamtime, 8C, V15, which is considered to be the benchmark for the grade.

Dai describes Byaku-dou as a 22-move problem broken into two sections that climb out a 150-160 degree roof.

No stranger to hard climbing, 27-year-old Koyamada has made ascents of at least 15 climbs rated 8c+, 5.14c or harder in Europe and Japan, including the fourth ascent of Fred Rouhling's "Hugh," graded 9a, 5.14d in France, and has established several V13 and V14 problems at Hourai. Among these was the fourth ascent of Rouhling’s Hugh (5.14d) in France and a new route, Logical Progression (5.14d), at home in Japan. Koyamada also has flashed routes as hard as 5.13d.

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