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Nose Record Completely Smashed!

 Nose Record Completely Smashed!

by Hans Florine

September 30, 2002

Camp4 - Climbing News Archive

Hans Florine and Yuji Hirayama race up the Nose on El Capitain in 2 hours, 48 minutes, and 55 seconds!

It was inevitable that the Nose record would be broken, but could anyone conceive that an already unbelievable time of 3:24:04 (O'Neill/Potter) would be completely smashed. Well, on September 29, Yuji and I did it.

Yuji led the whole route. We simulclimbed about 2450 ft and I jugged while Yuji short-fixed/self-belayed for about 500 ft.

We exchanged gear at the 6th pitch, (leaving Sickle), at the 17th pitch,( King Swing), at the 21st pitch, (Great Roof), at the 25th and 27th pitch, (Camp 5 and 6).

We started at 7:15 am and topped out at 10:03 am. It was a bit cold at the start, my hands barely staying warm enough to feel the pin scars on the first three pitches. After that it was perfect temperatures. I was gasping for breath as we entered into the Stove Legs at the 7th pitch. Luckily I had a minute rest there as I waited for Yuji to get more than two pieces between us. From there up I managed to keep from going anarobic, til the last 100 ft.- where I pushed hard knowing I could colapse on top,- which I did.

We carried one #3 camalot, one #2, two #1s, one.75, one .5, and doubles below that. 6 nuts, one cam hook, one etrier, 17 quick draws, 18 free biners, 6 long runners, one Powergel each, one liter water each, one 10Oz can UpTime drink, a Gri gri, a couple lockers, Petzl jugs, set of JJs,(jugging loops), shorts, one dress shirt, one t-shirt.

BOY IT WAS FUN! and rewarding!

Read past articles about the race up the Nose...

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