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Wickedly Hard Routes Put Up In Canadian Rockies


by Editor

February 05, 2002

Camp4 - Climbing News Archive

The Cineplex is not an absurdly large movie theater complex. It is the latest torture chamber for sicko mixed climbing in the Canadian Rockies. This winter Will Gadd and friends have been climbing some incredibly hard routes. Just to give you a taste of just how hard we are talking about, read Will Gadd's description of his new testpiece Musashi. Will says, "Musashi is the right-hand of the two sicko mixed lines at the Cineplex. Climb out the 35-foot roof using various tricks and weird tactics including horizontal dynos and about 8 figure fours, pull the ice roof at the end." He concludes his description by saying, "It's definitely the hardest thing I've ever climbed by an order of magnitude." He gives it a grade of 5.9, A2 or M.F.H. We will let you guess what M.F.H. means. After all this is a family publication.

If that sounds to difficult, try the namesake of the cave behind Panther Falls. The Cineplex at WI4, M9- was first climbed last March (2001) by Jim Gudjonson and Grant Meekins. Or you can also try Coming Attraction M6/M7, another Jim Gudjonson route, in the same area.

Thinking of taking a trip to the Canadian Rockies anytime soon? here is a list of some of the other new routes in the area:

  • Musashi, 5.9 A2 or MFH, WI 8-, FA: W. Gadd, B Firth and crew
  • Phyllis Diller, M10-, 18m, FA: Dave Thomson, Sean Isaac
  • Bad Actors, M7, WI4, FA: D. Ruddy, S. Elliott
  • Troubled Waters, M9-, WI8-, FA: Scott Semple and Eammon Walsh
  • Hope It's Good, (M6/WI5+ R), FA: Travis Fenton, Tyler Ledger, Roger ?
  • Choksondik, VI, WI5, 225m, FA: Rene Cote, Jon Walsh, Doug Sproul
  • American Triangle Revisited, Will Gadd, Kim Csimazia
  • Protection Mountain Mini-Mecca area: New routes by Raphael Slawinski and Grant Meekins
  • Suffer Less (Climb more version), a direct start to Suffer Machine, M7. Rob Owens and Jason Billings
  • A Virgin No More", Josh Briggs, EamonnWalsh, Virginia Buckley
  • The Cineplex, WI4, M9-, 30m. FA. Jim Gudjonson and Grant Meekins

For more information and descriptions of some of (these and) other new routes in the Canadian Rockies visit Will Gadd's website Gaddsport.

News courtesy of Gaddsport.

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