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Alexander Huber Frees New Route on El Cap


by Alexander Huber

December 29, 2001

Camp4 - Climbing News Archive

El Corazon, 5.13b, 35 pitches. The Heart is the most obvious of all features on the big walls of El Capitan and it marks the very center of the southwest face. Through the middle of this formation leads the classic aid-route 'son of heart' - well known for its frightening and claustrophobic chimneys. for 300 meters this corner and chimney system rips through the overhanging walls above the heart - a very natural line for free climbing.

From the 7th to the 14th of september Alexander and his partner Max Reichel looked for the 100% freeable line on the southwest face and created the their new route 'El Corazon', which is a combination of Salathé, Albatross, Son of Heart and Heart Route plus some new established variations to link the freeable sections of the existing routes. Besides adding some new bolts on belay stations, no single bolt has been placed for the new route. Pitons and bird beaks, which have been placed during the first ascent on the necessary new variations, have been left as protection for the freeclimb.

Alexander returned to the route for another 6 days to work on freeclimbing the different pitches and on the 3rd of october at 10 a.m. Alexander started on the base of the Aalathé to redpoint the route in a single push. On the afternoon of the second day he reached the 'tower to the people', 850 meters above the base. After the second bivy a cloudy morning caused an early start and so he reached the top 48 hours after leaving the valley floor.

For pics and topos go to Huberbaum.

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