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New Speed Record For The Nose!

 New Speed Record For The Nose!

by Bill Wright

December 29, 2001

Camp4 - Climbing News Archive

On October 15, Yosemite Valley onlookers witnessed an incredible record-breaking ascent of the Nose by Dean Potter and Tim O'Neill. The exact time is 3 hours and 59 minutes! The previous fastest time was 4h22m by Hans Florine and Peter Croft. Earlier this year Hans tried to break the record with Tommy Caldwell and did 4h31m.

The following is a report of the event by Bill Wright

"This was the longest standing speed record in Yosemite at 9 years old. I (Bill Wright) just got off the phone with Hans as he called me. He was in the valley for some of it and videoed some. A bunch of people were watching and 3-4 telescopes were set up to capture the feat. They started around 7:30 a.m. and finished at 11:30 a.m. They passed only one party at the start of the Great Roof. Mark and I watched this party yesterday on Boot Flake when we were sitting in El Cap Meadow hoping to see this feat. We missed the event by one day.

I can't wait to get with Tim when he returns to Colorado. Wow! Congratulations, Tim and Dean! Hans offered to take the two out to the Awahnee for dinner tonight. No word if they have accepted yet.

Hans is already plotting an attempt on the record and will need to go for it soon. He needs a lightning fast partner like Dean or Tim or Cedar Wright or... My choice: Jim Herson! Come on, Jim!"

Previous Speed Ascents (from

4:22 Peter Croft and Hans Florine. June 1992
16:30 Abby Watkins and Vera Wong. 1996
12:59 Dean Potter - solo. July 1999 (start of EC and HD in a day)
23:+? Lynn Hill. 1994 ( FFA - Fastest Free Ascent)
8:40 Lynn Hill and Hans Florine. July 1992( Fastest Female/Male ascent)

Other Interesting Links:

At Hans Florine describes the official standard time starts and stops for Yosemite speed-records. He also decsribes the the start/stop times for the Nose.

A short biography of Dean Potter on the Black Diamond web site.

News tip courtesy of Bill Wright and Climbing

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