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Potential V16 climbed and claimed in Italy


by Dougald MacDonald

January 28, 2004

Camp4 - Climbing News Archive

Italian Mauro Calibani has suggested a grade of 8c+ (V16) for his new boulder problem Tonino ’78 in central Italy. The problem adds a five-move V10 start to Calibani’s problem Leonardo Da Vinci (V14), which itself got much harder after a crucial hold broke, leaving a “very slopery bad pinch.” Calibani established Leonardo in April 2003; it has been repeated only by the French bouldering star Julien Nadiras.

Tonino ’78, named after some graffiti on the rock, is located in the obscure sandstone boulders of Meschia in Italy’s central Appenine Mountains. Calibani has developed the area almost exclusively since 1997. The landowner has closed it to general use, but Calibani maintains a good rapport with the owner, and he urged climbers to contact him ( to arrange a visit.

Calibani, 29, won the World Bouldering Championships in 2001 and the Arco invitational bouldering competitions in 2002 and 2003. He runs a climbing clothing and accessories company called E9.

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