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2003 Top 10 Endangered Climbing Areas


by Editor

March 28, 2003

Camp4 - Climbing News Archive

The Access Fund has launched the Top Ten Endangered Climbing Areas Campaign, an initiative designed to educate the climbing community on the most threatened climbing areas around the country. The Access Fund hopes to raise awareness about each area by educating climbers about the area’s history and why climbing is closed or restricted. Involvement from the local climbing community and discussions with land owners/agencies regarding management or solutions are critical to the success of this campaign.

“The Access Fund launched the top ten endangered campaign to illuminate the problems facing these important areas, and to highlight ten areas most in need of immediate attention," said Shawn Tierney, Access Fund access and acquisitions director, "Many of these problems could be remedied by increased climber involvement and stewardship. We also hope to elevate the sense of urgency and commitment among climbers to protect our climbing resources."

Below is a list of the endangered areas in alphabetical order:

  1. Cave Rock, NV. POSSIBLE CLOSURE. Working to prevent discriminatory closure of Lake Tahoe's premier sport climbing crag.
  2. Hueco Tanks State Historic Site, TX. RESTRICTIONS. Slowly improving access through conservation grants and direct advocacy.
  3. Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT. POSSIBLE CLOSURES. Supporting Salt Lake Climbers Alliance in negotiations with LDS church to ensure continued access to Gate Buttress and other church owned land.
  4. Little River Canyon, AL. POSSIBLE CLOSURE. Supporting Southeastern Climbers Coalition efforts to address recreation impacts.
  5. The Flatirons, CO. POSSIBLE RESTRICTIONS/CLOSURES. Working closely with Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks Department to identify reasonable fixed anchor policy and bouldering access.
  6. Skytop Cliff, the Gunks, NY. CLOSED. Efforts to open this area have not been successful due to insurance constraints and liablility concerns of the landowner.
  7. Red River Gorge, KY. POSSIBLE CLOSURES. Working closely with the Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition to address cultural and natural resource impact issues.
  8. Red Rocks, NV. POSSIBLE FIXED ANCHOR BAN AND ENCHROACHMENT OF PRIVATE DEVELOPMENT. Work in Washington D.C. to develop a reasonable BLM fixed anchor policy; advocacy at the county level to oppose private housing development.
  9. Twin Sisters, City of Rocks National Reserve, ID. CLOSED. Working to restore access through legal, political, and administrative channels.
  10. Volcanic Tableland, CA. POSSIBLE CLOSURES/RESTRICTIONS. Working closely with the BLM to address camping, trails, and archeological site protection at this popular bouldering area.

News provided by the Access Fund.

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