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Florine and Hirayama with Near Record Attempt on the Nose

 Florine and Hirayama with Near Record Attempt on the Nose

by Hans Florine

September 24, 2002

Camp4 - Climbing News Archive

Remember the speed battle for the fastest time up the Nose last year? Hans Florine and Tommy Caldwell (3:41), then Dean Potter and Tim O'Neill (3:59), then Hans Florine and Jim Herson (3:57), and finally the season ended with ONeill and Dean Potter blazing up the usual multi-day climb in a blistering 3 hours, 24 minutes and 4 seconds. Well, the boyz are back at it again!

Yuji Hirayama and myself climbed The Nose route on El Capitan in 3 hours and 26 minutes*. We passed 7 parties! but the record for passing, THAT I KNOW OF, is Chandlee Harrell and myself passing 9 parties in 2000 on the Nose in a 7 hour and change ascent.

* this was the time from the start of the first pitch per the SuperTopo, and finishing at the bolts over the lip where it has been timed to in the past. We continued up the slab and both got to the big tree at 3:27.

Additionaly, on September 19, Yuji Hirayama free climbed the whole Salathe route in 13 hours! He took the offwidth variation below the spire, and the Huber variation instead of the Teflon corner. BIG LINK UP! - Yuji climbed from Sois le tois ledge to Long Ledge in TWO PITCHES! He belayed at the lip of the roof/beginning-of-the-headwall!

Read past articles about the race up the Nose...

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