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Huber and Team Summit the Ogre


by Editor

July 16, 2001

Camp4 - Climbing News Archive

Thomas Huber and his team have summited the Ogre on the previously unclimbed west summit of Ogre II, also known as Ogre III. The peak has previously only been climbed once by Chris Bonnington and Doug Scott. A conflict with another (American) expedition caused Huber, Urs Stöcker and Iwan Wolf to change their foucs to do an alpine-style ascent of the unclimbed 6800-metre peak known as either the west summit of Ogre II or 'Ogre III'

On July 21st the team of Thomas Huber, Urs Stoecker and Iwan Wolf stood on the summit of the Ogre (7285m) in the Karakorum, only the second team to ever climb the mountain. Having already achieved the first ascent of the extremely difficult Ogre III on July 1st, Thomas and his team then concentrated on climbing the Ogre, which was the ultimate goal of their expedition.

The Ogre was first climbed in 1977 by Sir Chris Bonington and Doug Scott and all other attempts since - more than 20 expeditions - have been unsuccessful. On July 18th, after two days' preparation, Thomas and his team left base camp for their summit attempt amid uncertain weather conditions. On July 20th they reach the top of the pillar at 6500m, following 28 pitches of climbing. After a short night they started again at 2.00a.m. for the final, decisive push.

They climbed the steep (up to 55°) and very arduous ice field, which led to the start of the extremely hard climb to the summit. Climbing up to grade UIAA 6, with technical climbing up to A2, combined with strong wind and extreme cold make the last few metres to the summit a severe challenge, but one that Thomas, Urs and Iwan were ready to face. At 3.30 p.m. the team reach the summit of the Ogre_after 24 years.

The Ogre 2001 expedition was supported by Berghaus, with the company providing technical clothing and rucsacs for the team. The Berghaus website ( also hosted a microsite dedicated to Ogre 2001, on which can be found a full diary of the expedition, along with some stunning photography. Thomas Huber has been working with the company since the start of 2000, when he joined his brother Alex on the Berghaus Team.

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