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The American Alpine Journal, The World's Most Significant Climbs 2004


 The American Alpine Journal, The World's Most Significant Climbs 2004
 

by Sean Hudson

November 20, 2004

For all the reading material we receive throughout the year, The American Alpine Journal is by far one of the most anticipated books to arrive in our mailbox. The American Alpine Journal, published annually since 1929, is considered by many as the definitive record of the past year’s most significant climbing achievements. You will not find any typical half-assed magazine style writing between these covers – no endless spray about the hardest boulder problem or who downgraded someone else’s sport route. The writing found in The American Alpine Journal is nothing short of being absolutely inspirational.

In the 2004 edition, edited by John Harlin III, you can read about first ascents by people like Willie Benegas, Yuri Koshelenko, Wayne Wallace, Jeremy Frimer, Didier Jourdain, Alun Hubbard, Mike Kibecki, and Kenton Cool, among others. Additionally you can find hundreds of trip reports from climbers exploring areas of the world from the Cirque of the Unclimables to Kokshaal-Too.

Here are a few articles you will find in The American Alpine Journal 2004:
  • The Crystal Snake, by Willie Benegas – Overlooking the Everest circus and yet a world away: a water ice rivulet on the north face of Nuptse, Nepal.
  • Moonlight Sonata, by Yuri Koshelenko – Two Russians define commitment on the oft-attempted southeast buttress of Nuptse East, Nepal.
  • Walking the Fence, by Wayne Wallace – The Southern Picket Enchainment, Washington.
  • Non C’e Due Senza, by Micah Dash – The great line on Nalumasortoq goes free, Greenland.
  • Jirishanca, by Jeremy Frimer – A climbing history of the Hummingbird Peak’s southeast face, Peru.
  • Fear and Loathing, by Nick Bullock – Alpine-style suffering on Jirishanca’s great southeast face.
  • Tambo, Churros Y Amigos, by Didier Jourdain – One crazy adventure on the southeast face of Jirishanca.
  • The Endless Summer Expedition, by Alun Hubbard – A quest to loose oneself between Alaska and Antarctica.
  • Fenris, by Mike Libecki – Notes from a dream fulfilled in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica.
  • Between the Light and the Shadow, by Nikola Levakov – Struggling with wind and cold while putting up the Bulgarian route on the north face of Thalay Sagar, Garwhal, India.
  • The Dutch Route, by Mike van Berkel – The northeastern, sunnier side of Thalay Sagar yields its first complete route.
  • One-Way Ticket, by Patrice Glairon-Rappaz – Surrealistic purity on the new French route up the north face of Thalay Sagar.
  • Hajji Brakk & K7, by Steve House – Alone among the granite spires of the Charakusa Valley, Pakistan.
  • Annapurna III, by Kenton Cool – Expeditioning the “British Way” during the first ascent of the southwest ridge, Nepal.
  • Mixed Messages, edited by David Dornian – Is hard M-sport-climbing influencing high standard alpinism?
  • No Siesta, by Robert Jasper – The first free (dry tooling) ascent of perhaps the hardest mixed route in the Alps, on the Grand Jorasses, France.
  • North Twin Revisited, by Steve House – Pursuing the adventure attitude on Canada’s greatest wall.
  • A Mountain Unveiled, by Rolando Garibotti – A revealing analysis of Cerro Torre’s tallest tale.
These and many other stories can be read in this 496 page anthology of the greatest climbing achievements of 2003. This is a must have book for any armchair mountaineer’s collection. Published by Mounatineers Books, September 2004.


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