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Route Grading Scale


 

by Editor

December 29, 2001

While reading Camp4 News, did you ever wonder how all those different rating scales relate to each other. An average climber in North America could probably climb a 9 with no real trouble. But by the French method of grading an 8 is a very advanced route. To make matters more complicated route grades can vary from area to area depending on the style and time the route was first climbed. Below I've included a chart with the major route grading systems, that shows how they compare to each other.







UK Adj. UK Fr. US Aus. UI
AA
Belg Pol. DE Nor. Swe. NC
CS
HS S 4b 5a 5.7 14 5 D

sup
V VIIa 5- 5- F7
5+ 5 5
VS 15
4c 5b 5.8 6- inf

TD

sup
VI VIIb 5+ 5+ F8
16
H
VS
6
5a 5c 5.9 17 VI+ VIIc 6- 6- F9
6+
E1 18
5b 6a - a
b
5.10
c
+ d
7- inf

ED

sup
VI.1 VIIIa 6 6 F10
19
E2 7 VI.1+ VIIIb 6+ 6+
5c 6b 20 F11
21 7+ VI.2 VIIIc 7-
E3 7-
6c - a
b
5.11
c
+ d
22 8- inf





ABO
VI.2+ IXa F12
6a 23 7 7
E4 8 VI.3 IXb
7a 24 7+ F13
25 8+ VI.3+ IXc 7+
E5 6b
-
7b
+
- a
b
5.12
c
+ d
26 9- VI.4 Xa 8- F14
8-
E6 27 9 VI.4+ 8
6c -
7c
+
28 9+ Xb 8 F15
  VI.5 8+
E7 - a
b
5.13
c
+ d
29 10-
8a

+
30 VI.5+ Xc 8+ F16
7a 10 9-
E8 31 VI.6 9- F17
?
8b

+
9
- a
b
5.14
c
+ d
32 11 VI.7
E9 9
7b 8c

+
33 9+
34
7c 9a


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