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Stevie Haston Has Grabbed the 2nd Ascent of Mission Impossible


 

by Unknown

February 24, 2001

Camp4 - Climbing News Archive

Stevie Haston has grabbed the 2nd ascent of Bubu's "Mission Impossible". Bole climbed on January 31 what could have been the hardest mixed route in the world. "Mission Impossible" is situated in Valsavaranche (valle d’Aosta, Italy). Bubu's not claiming M12 or M13, only because, according to Bubu, this route is much, much...harder, so he proposes a "M Bubu" grade. Well, Haston says its more like M11 and not the first reported M12+.

In fact, the Briton affirmed that the route is more physical but less psychological than ' Imperio Contraatacá, first M11 of the world that was climbed by Haston. In addition, he declared that the degree is more or less similar. ' Mission Impossible' crosses one first mixed section of ice and rock through a vertical wall of 20 meters. It follows a brutal collapse to him with inclinations of until 60º, that culminates in a completely horizontal ceiling. The challenge ends at an ice curtain, more psychological than physical.

On another note, Bubu, does not rest long. 20 days after climbing Mission Impossible, the powerful Italian climber has completed a new route in Val Brutta, ' Gravity Games', M9. This new line begins with a section of diagonal ice that ends at a ceiling of 4 meters of broken rock. After a rest without hands, the climb concludes with a hanging ice tooth, that held the attacks of Bubu. A year ago, the Italian completed, in the same area, a radical mixed climb, 60 meters long, that was rated M8. This route, that combines sections of ice and rock, and sections of fine verglás, culminates in a ceiling towards the end. The recent Gravity Games runs meters to the left of this old M8.



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