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O'Neill and Martin Climb New Variation on Torre Egger


 

by Hans Florine

February 04, 2002

Camp4 - Climbing News Archive

The theme for this winter's news could very well be titled "All Patagonia, All the Time" or "Americans Kicking Ass and Taking Names in Patagonia"

Tim O'Neill and Nathan Martin climbed a new variation on the East Face of Torre Egger. The first 10 pitches is on the Italian Route, the next 8 pitches is new climbing, and the final 14 pitches finish up on the Titanic. After tunneling through the summit mushrooms, the pair spent the next 15 hours rappelling the route through a severe storm.

In a recent post to Risk Online, Russian climber, Arkadi Seregin said they attempted the route several times but were halted by weather on all but their final attempt. Seregin also said that it was the first ever alpine-style ascent of Torre Egger. The variation is 32 pitches long and rated at (6b, A2+, WI 4).

Tim O'Neill news courtesy of Arkadi Seregin and Risk Online.

Also, Steve Schneider attempted to bag all three towers again. On the first tower, he ran up the Monzino Route and broke the record again! I think it was around 45 minutes (his previous record set just days ago was 71 minutes. He then had bad weather roll in as he was a few pitches up the Bonnigton route on the central tower. No doubt if the weather cooperates he will surely bag them all in a very impressive time.

Read More About the 2002 Patagonian Climbing Season:




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