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Chris Sharma climbs Realization (Biographie extension)!


 

by Unknown

July 19, 2001

Camp4 - Climbing News Archive

Chris Sharma has done it! He’s managed to climb the second part of Biographie and, for the first time ever, link the entire route. In doing so he finishes a project in Ceuse started in 1996, widely considered as one of the hardest lines in France and the world.

Realization (Biographie extension) is composed of a first 8c+ section, freed by Arnaud Petit in 1996 and repeated by just Sharma and Sylvain Millet, that leads to a chain at half-height. Leaving a further 20m of intense climbing, graded 8b+ in its own right with a 7c+ boulder crux and no rest whatsoever. The problem was linking it all together…

Sharma originally freed the first section in three days and returned repeatedly to Ceuse specifically for this project. In 1997 alone he dedicated a month to the route, and in total fell from the high crux about 30 times.

With this route Sharma manages to finish what he considers one of his most important projects. As is well known, the young American doesn’t grade his routes, but seeing that he needed three years to free the line…he rechristened the route Realization. If confirmed at 5.15a, Realization could well be one of the world's hardest sport climbs.

Below read past Camp4 articles on Sharma and Biogarphie:

Chris Sharma Close to First 5.15 and Dave Graham Closes In
and Santa Cruz Climber Shoots For the World's First 5.15

Read an excellent story on this climb at climbXmedia.com.



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